BANDHAVGARH BEYOND TIGERS

 
‘We travel not to escape life, but for life not to escape us’

 – Robyn Yong

Now, into seventh decade of life, I find myself yearning for more productive and soul filling, travels. Indulgence into run of the mill tourism, attracts me no more now. Travel is a nice getaway as it up-sticks us from the grooves of our daily mundane chores, and releases us free to make fresh connects within and without. It is a great feeling of being liberated, like switching over to ‘Do Not Disturb’ mode. We, four childhood friends homed on to Bandhavgarh National Park, for a sojourn with its luring deciduous forest.
All of us Boarded Dayodaya Express at Jaipur, to take us to Katani junction, the railhead for Bandhavgarh. Dayodaya (दयोदय) was a strange word to me, and it took me a while to understand its meaning. I learnt, it is concept, and a movement by one Jain muni, Vidyasagar about the human compassion towards animals. May be the Indian Railway thought well to name this train so, taking travellers to wildlife sanctuaries and parks of Madhya Pradesh.

To know the actual India, and with no pretence, a long rail journey does real good.  The real India, is on the railway platforms and the public conduct is despicable and disgusting. The coach we travelled in was, unmistakably on a rather long extended service, with no Supreme Court to intervene, as in case of Qamar Javed Bajwa, the Pakistani Army Chief. Despite the visible series of repairs and patch work, it had still worsened into a bone rattler. Though, the coach was well kept otherwise and well served but the blankets they issued for the night, stank. All these irritants miserably failed to dampen our spirits, and the enthusiasm to travel to Bandhavgarh was uncork-able. Soon, we four were chatting, recollecting schooldays, old friends, and talking non stop with sporadic crackles, unmindful of the strange looks from co passengers. Our Absolute (spirit) with freshly cut lime &  crushed green chillies, went well camouflaged. The pot lunch was sumptuously filling, and our titters faded as we dosed of late, well passed midnight.

Soon, we were on the road loaded in Innova driving to Bandhavgarh, Tala to be precise. The deciduous forests along side, made the single road look like a tunnel. The whole environment was so invigorating, we rolled the panes of car windows down to gasp as much fresh air. Our hosts: The Tiger Den, run by Mr Gyanendra Tripathi, gave us opened arms reception. The resort is tastefully laid out, landscaped with exotic plantation. The bamboo groves, Champa, Molsari,  Kadam, Palash etc, standing tall and were enough to make us fall in love with the place. Here we will be spending nextt threed  and the very thought was kindling excitement inside us. The cottages were neat, clean and well furnished.

It was Safari Time at 2.30 PM.

We all dressed up like cowboys, donning shades, mounted the Maruti Gypsy, and our सारथी was Sh.Raju Singh, a veteran driver of Bandhavgarh Park, for 25 years. He knew the sanctuary like back of his palm and Tigers by their first names including lineage. Our rattled backs, after Dayodaya Express, found no respite with Raju Singh Ji’s Gypsy. Himmat Singh, one of the  foursome had tough time in the rear most seat. I had comfortable time sitting in front, courtesy the rest. They knew my handicap.

Bandhavgarh, is mainly a Sal forest, a tree that provided timber for railway sleepers, till the concrete ones replaced these recently. The locals say nothing goes wrong with the wood for 300 years, and in their dialect “ सौ साल खड़ी, सौ साल पड़ी और सौ साल ना सड़ी। It is a tough wood. We soon started seeing wild life, and the very first were elephants housed in their camps. It was wonderful sight of a baby elephant and mother cuddling with her trunk. Soon, we crossed a herd of spotted deer grazing, then
appeared wild boars, crossing our track. Jungle babblers, and many birds we don’t know names of,were cooing and chirping filling the air with such delight.

And then our guide drew our attention to the callings by different animals. It was monkey and Chital repeating the call with enough desperation. I was experiencing it for the first time. Padam Singh, a veteran of Forest services, explained us the calling by animals and how one can track the movement of the predators. Our guide, soon changed his guess from Tiger in proximity, to Leopard because the Chital’s bleating was not crying enough. It was getting dark, and there was no sighting of Tiger as yet.  We returned to our camp empty and disappointed. Fortunately, Padam Singh’s friend and a colleague from Forest Dept, Mr Narendra Singh Parihar came down to meet him. He promised us
Tiger sighting next morning.

We were up at five, made second attempt and this time through a different zone called Magadhi. Early morning chill, and drive in open Gypsy was bothering us when, we were pleasantly surprised by our hosts who handed over us soft blankets to cover ourselves. It was like God sent. As we drove into forest through the misty morning, we were greeted by a herd of Bisons grazing not any far from us. What a massive beast it is! Each shouldn’t be weighing less than 6 to 700 Kgs. Our guide, indicated two alpha males, who would be around 1000 kgs. They both had locked their horns, and may be claiming mating rights in the herd. We took some snaps.

As we moved deeper into the jungle, Kamlesh our guide spotted the pug marks of Tiger. He further asserted, these are of a Tigress and other smaller ones of her three cubs. He knew, that she is Dotty and just finished her night patrol, along with her cubs. Dotty, with her young ones now in a process to settle down for the day, he further stressed. I asked, why she is called Dotty? Kamlesh explained that the Tigress has a ‘D’ looking spot on her forehead, and that’s how the name. And, there is another Tigress who is named Spotty, on similar lines. The pug marks were seen vanishing into the woods, and we all knew where she has taken a morning break. There was continuous calling, and the presence of Tigress was eminent. But, she wouldn’t just show up. Our patience gave up. We decided to drive upto the refreshment point and have our breakfast, in the meantime. The hawkers, there were making hot pakoras, steaming Maggi, and ginger tea. I didn’t touch packed Breakfast from Hotel. As, we were getting done with our last sips of hot tea, there was sudden alert sounded for the Tiger, who was greedily eyeing for some cows, strayed grazing into the buffer. All the tourists jumped into Gypsies, and everyone just broke loose, zipping towards the sought after spot.

And, lo behold. The Tiger was in his ambush, tactically sited. Unnerved by huge gallery, the regal predator was sitting on the fringes, well camouflaged. His demeanour was kingly and we all watched him with widow eyes. Our wait was over. After, granting us a great audience, he quietly walked to his next bound for an intended hunt. As he gracefully moved, his gender was reconfirmed and “ He is Bhamera’s son” said Kamlesh. What a name the royal beast had! I enquired further, and unfolded the story. There was Tiger who had once strayed into nearby village, called Bhamera. He got his name. What we saw was his son. Seems so strange! No?

Our mission was nearly over once the Tiger had shown up. For all those wildlife enthusiasts, who venture into various sanctuaries and parks, I would leave a thought behind. It is the forest and it’s environ that has to be savoured and felt by our souls. Focusing on Tiger sighting can rob you of the small pleasures of watching the flora and fauna, the cooing and chirping of the birds, fluttering of jungle fowls, that innocent gaze by antelopes or may be monkeys jumping around. The moist air of jungle has soul filling scent and earthly whiffs that invigorates your nostrils and lungs. The quietness and serenity of jungle is treasure we miss in cities. Let’s not miss woods for the trees, or shall we say Tiger?

Part II

A visit to Bandhavgarh would be incomplete without having shopped and eaten at Malaya, a boutique cum café run by an elderly lady Ms Neelam. Her shop be better called as an Art Gallery. She relocated herself away from the hustle bustle of Ahmedabad city, for her sheer love for living in smaller places, close to nature. The lady has rightly thought of running such a delightful corner in a rustic rural, Tala. Ms Neelam has a passion of collecting art & craft works from pan India, specially the tribal work. She singlehandedly drives her Maruti Gypsy, and detests national highways. Venturing deep into the countrysides, she looks for dying arts and skills of our Indian tribes, reach out to artists, crafts(wo)men and does her best to preserve these. Each item in her shop is carefully selected, handpicked and needless to say priceless. Himmat Singh and I bought a few souvenir, but  God sent,  through her, was my favourite fresh beans, French Press filtered Coffee, with a delicious banana cake (egg free), that too complimentary. Knowing her was great pleasure, and my blog would have been equally incomplete without mentioning The Malaya.

Death of Mainstream Politics in J&K

The Ceasefire line of Indo-Pak war in 1947-48 was also de facto, divided the polity of J&K on lines of secularism. On its Eastern side the J&K polity, enjoyed the confidence of an emerging  progressive leader, Mohammad Sheikh Abdullah. He had changed name of his political party from Muslim Conference to National Conference. Nearing independence, the friendship between Nehru and Sheikh grew stronger and was forged more on ideology and mutual admiration. While, the integration of J&K into union of India under the provisions of article 370 had begun well, the demand of plebiscite didn’t die as wished, and anticipated by Nehru. The trust between Nehru and Sheikh started eroding as both were testing waters to encroach upon more and more political advantage. Nehru, had signalled in his Calcutta speech(1948), that Plebiscite may be difficult due to changed circumstances, and later subsequently enforced CAG jurisdiction over J&K, and merged its state forces with Indian Army much against the wishes of Sheikh. This led to mistrust and doubt in the mind of Sheikh, if his decision of supporting Instrument of Accession, was right. He started exploring possibilities to have an independent Kashmir, and his liaison with Ayub Khan, US envoys suggested that.
What came to be known as Kashmir Conspiracy was hatched. Sheikh was arrested and put behind bars in a jiffy. He didn’t realise what had hit him. This gave a backhand blow on Kashmiri mainstream politics, and seeds of separatism were sown right in.
Then, began the era of making and unmaking of Jammu and Kashmir Government through rigging elections, and manipulating politics of the state. The mainstream political leadership learnt the art of doing a tightrope walking, keeping the separatists and Delhi, both in good humour. Winning public support was of no consequence. The separatists had their militant wing going with the aid of Pakistan, and resorted to radicalisation through jihadi money to keep fuelling the  insurgency. The mainstream politicians had to fine tune the violence, separatists voices and Delhi's cash flow, there in lied the art of living. There was no slot for common Kashmiri to share political space and chip in to build its future. As a result these, manipulators swelled financially and had their coffers full.
The real leadership of Kashmir that had believed in joining secular, socialist India, and with a greater autonomy, while discarding the Pakistan option being regressive, had no other choice but to fade away or join separatists. The Delhi sponsored and groomed stooges, represented mainstream politics of Kashmir but this was sheer pretence, and fake. It had no future. In Hindi a saying goes, jhoot ke paanv nahin hotey. The message from Center was loud and clear that Government in state would represent Delhi, and people of Kashmir do not matter.
 A new strategy was unrolled by Delhi on 5th August 2019, as a Kashmir resolution formula. The State was reorganised into two Union Territories with severely curtailed legislative powers. The idea is to strengthen the local bodies and empowering  people at grassroots levels on one hand, and dismantle the helm of mainstream leadership on the other. Should it work or not? This current speculation is puzzling Kashmir observers now. Rekha Chowdhary in 'The Wire' says :   “By denigrating mainstream politics in Kashmir, the Modi government at the Centre has created a dangerous vacuum, reversing the gains of the past couple of decades.”
The empowerment of Panchayats in Kashmir is a noble idea and should work with people handling their own affairs of development and governance, leaving the separatist agenda for state leadership to conduct. And this has been already decimated smartly. Even the Hurriyat shall meet the similar fate.
Honestly speaking, mainstream politicians have failed the people of Kashmir by conspiring with Delhi, match-fixing with Separatists/Militants,  and conniving with ISI. It’s good that vitiated leadership of Kashmir is dispatched home and new crop of leaders to build Kashmir for future is ushered in. It’s not going to be straight walk but would need sustain effort and support from Delhi to de- radicalise, and heal the wounded hearts of alienated as well angered Kashmiris.
It may, still be premature to mourn the death of mainstream leadership in J&K, and wait for the new Kashmir to shape. Possibility of moments of rejoice shouldn’t be discounted.

Ladakh Trip.



My fascination for Pangyong Tso (Lake) had started growing longtime back (yr 2003-4), when we, military intelligence staff officers, at Army’s Northern Command Headquarters, would regularly collate the Chinese intrusions in Ladakh.  The forward troops used to send us such beautiful visuals of this amazing lake, as part of the Situation Reports; and these would lure me to the marrow. Since, then I harboured the desire, to be there one day, and physically feel the very vim, this wonderful creation of nature invigorates. Apparently, God has a
timetable for all of us, and my visit to Pangyong Tso was to come now, so much later. It’s another piece of cake that at sixty(+) years my physical strengths would prove inadequate, to luxuriate this wonderful gifts of the nature, and my much cherished desire. Yet, it was an lifetime experience.

We, four boarding school old boys, regardless of our ripened age, decided to take our maiden trip to Ladakh, that too as singles (liberated from wives).

 The excitementw obvious, and I during
planning of the itinerary had put my foot down, saying: “Visit to Pangyong Tso is non negotiable

 Ladakh historically, I learnt has been a melting pot of many cultures, evolving into the finest traditions of peace and spirituality. Shamanism, Buddhism, Islam, Christianity and Hinduism are some of the many ingredients, of an entrancing recipe, that the pot churns out placidly. My friend Zora Nawang Regzin, a very tall local political leader, says, to our pleasant surprise that Buddhism came to Ladakh via Kashmir, which was at one time great Buddhist learning centre. Buddhism, in Ladakh he adds, is a blend of Shamanism, unlike what is being practiced in Japan or elsewhere. As we set out to see Leh, former capital of Ladakh kingdom, and its surroundings, Shri Patthar Sahib Gurudwara was one high point.
Guru Nanak Dev had meditated here, on the banks of River Indus and held on to a huge rock hurled at him by the demon.

As Zanskar river joins Indus only few miles away from here, a spiritual confluence of Buddha and Nanak spurns palpable positive synergy in the environment. We were fed by the langar of Baba(Guru Nanak) for the lunch, and it was simply soul filling.

Stenzin, a cute Ladakhi, was our driver cum guide,  and next morning, we four set out to explore Nubra Valley, across Khardung La(pass). A small tip for the travellers to Ladakh, hire Mahendra’s Xylo and not Innova, because of road clearance. It is a perfect car for mountains and quite spacious too. Climbing along the winding road, chasing contours of barren mountains, was very exciting, specially for our civilian friends who were venturing into such altitudes for the first time. I realised as we grow old we are conditioned to all kind of motion sickness, and may be that it troubles only kids. We four were all happy and chatting, in a child like propensity. As the altitude increased, we faced some kind of breathlessness. Thanks to the advisory by Brig Jha, the hand held oxygen cylinders came handy. The puffs started. We, got bumped into Army convoy and over spent our time in crossing Khardung La, but finally it was such a relief to climb down from 18379 feet. Soon, we were driving along breathtaking Nubra valley. It is flanked on both sides by towering rocky mountains, chiseled by cruising winds over ages, and looking so very picturesque. Ladakh falls on the leeward side of Himalayas, and therefore gets scanty rains or snow. As the Valley widens, the River Nubra flows rather lethargically and her distinct green waters look simply divine, meandering the stretch of blade less terrain. The landscape surprises you with sand dunes, along the river banks, akin to our Rajasthan. In single frame of your lens you can click, snow clad peaks, barren mountains, flowing river bed and sand dunes.

To
utmost surprise we saw whirlwinds, similar to what we have in our native Rajasthan. Feeling at home we were, but got  punctuated by occasional breathlessness and tiredness to remind us of the altitude we were plying at. Notwithstanding, the perils of terrain we were enjoying thoroughly the beauty of Himalayan and Ladakh ranges. The temptation to shoot whole of Nubra Valley was getting high. We all got busy with our mobiles on a shooting spree. Soon we realised that fun of enjoying the realtime, seizing those memorable moments, was fleeting away. We just put the camera back and started savouring on those Godly creation.
It’s a rare part of the world, and holds immense opportunities to develop tourism for India. A stretch of mountain slopes on the Eastern Bank looked so similar to Grand Canyons of Arizona, and simply looked magnificent. As we were closing down for the day’s journey, a small village called Hundar popped up with greenery like an oasis. It rears double hump camels, that some Mongolian invaders supposed to have left behind some centuries ago. These are attraction to young tourists, and conveniently we kept our course, rushing to hit our destination, the Siachen Brigade Headquarters.




Brigadier Bhupesh Hada

He is the Siachen Tiger, World’s highest battle field Commander, a soldier of high acclaim who summited Mount Everest, runs Leh Marathon (73 km across Khardung La), and is fit as fiddle. His josh is unprecedented and he is itching to be unleashed into Pakistan. A decorated soldier, who dons with pride Purple Heart on his chest amongst many distinguished medals. Seeing him, Indian freedom stands  guaranteed. Bhupesh, hosted us generously for a sumptuous campfire dinner; and we were no stray visitors to his formation, but his seniors(uncles to him) from School. Felt so very proud.

Next day our journey began for Pangyong Tso, driving along the beautiful Shyok Valley. It gets surprisingly wide and takes away any kind of claustrophobia that one may suffer in high mountains. The road meanders running right on to bed of the river. We were lucky to spot some rare wildlife. First were a couple of stripped partridges, which google tells me are called Chukar Partridges. And next was Marmot. A burrowing animal of rodents family. A very cute, dumb creature which makes it a easy prey. Now in the list of endangered species. Snow leopards thrive on these. Marmots go, the leopards go. And, to our good luck we spotted herd of wild asses. They looked so pristine, and our friend Asadullah from Ladakh says, these are the purest form of life here. He further adds to support, a local notion prevails in Ladakh, that if humans touch these equines they could probably get infected. Imagine the purity.



Pangyong Tso  I, finally landed at Pangyong Tso on 18 May, 2019. Fifteen years, it took for my time to come. The experience was divine and God welcomed us by unleashing gushing winds, that could even rock our Xylo. As the winds blew past our faces and eyes got watered, the nose froze; and the vim that I had yearned for, was here kindling me. It was great moment of satisfaction and acclaim. The lake is simply breathtaking with its turquoise expanse of water, guarded by golden lit mountains with rocky face, and a leafless barren scape rising into spotless blue skies. You feel it only, when you are there in the middle. Amir Khan, the Bollywood Star has made this lake world famous through his movie called ‘Three Idiots’. We had lunch at a small eatery run by a young mother. We relished veg momos, and honey tea. That was surely energising. A lot needs to be done to have infrastructure for sustaining large number of tourists here.

We spent the night at Tangse, another Army camp. It was trying night at 15480 feet for half acclimatised oldies. The morning was bright and sunny, Sep Hemant treated us with some crisp hot parathas for breakfast with spicy aloo sabji. I am not so fond of parathas but couldn’t stop myself seeing three of my buddies savouring them.
Our journey back to Leh began soon after Parathas. Crossing Changala Pass was another experience. It’s a tougher pass to negotiate than Khardung La, the altitude being almost same.

Indian Army


The most inspiring part of my Ladakh trip was the indomitable spirit of Indian Army deployed there, and serving the nation under the harshest and trying conditions of weather and terrain. The Border Roads is sturdy organisation that works round the clock, relentlessly under extreme conditions to keep Ladakh open to rest of the world. Their sacrifices in no way go shorter than Indian Army. To feel a proud Indian, we all must visit Ladakh and smile with its sentinels, a selfie with them may be, to carry as a souvenir. Been once part of this mighty and hearty service, as veterans we feel, the Army is flying high. God speed and our salute….Jai Hind.

As we rolled down into the Indus Valley, and back on the road to Leh, there was an irresistible temptation to take a diversion from Karu, to visit the world renowned Monastery, Hemis. Jesus, supposed to have been here, as the controversial fable goes, during lost years. And above all, Parikshit, a soulmate friend, had insisted that we must.
Visit to Ladakh, is evidently incomplete without a spiritual sojourns at Monasteries. We chose only one, the Hemis.




Hemis Monastery.The Monastery is tucked high up, in to a cleavage of cliff like steep mountains. It overlooks a hermitage with cluster of houses for devotees and seekers to live and dwell.


 I, specially had an incredible experience, the moment I set my foot inside the stupa, where a huge, towering, copper gilded Buddha sits in a lotus mode. In, there I felt, was a tranquility of a deep ocean; and the air was filled with the smoky incense, simply lighting purity of thought. I just sat down in the shadow of Buddha, and slowly got drowned into the chanting of hymns. The divine sounds poured into my heart, filling whole inner self in consonance with the environment. Already worn out by the tough drive, down from Chang La, I was soon drifted into kind of a trans, inundated with the serenity of this Godly place. To me this was a high point of my sojourn in Ladakh. It took me an effort to come out of the deep quiescence and resume our journey ahead. I couldn’t resist sharing this with other three buddies, and they all had similar feelings to express. The whole place was superbly charged with positive energy.

A delicious lunch at Karu, was very filling, and Leh was not too far.
Our trip to Ladakh, ended sooner than we thought.