Ladakh Trip.
My fascination for Pangyong Tso (Lake) had started growing longtime back (yr 2003-4), when we, military intelligence staff officers, at Army’s Northern Command Headquarters, would regularly collate the Chinese intrusions in Ladakh. The forward troops used to send us such beautiful visuals of this amazing lake, as part of the Situation Reports; and these would lure me to the marrow. Since, then I harboured the desire, to be there one day, and physically feel the very vim, this wonderful creation of nature invigorates. Apparently, God has a
timetable for all of us, and my visit to Pangyong Tso was to come now, so much later. It’s another piece of cake that at sixty(+) years my physical strengths would prove inadequate, to luxuriate this wonderful gifts of the nature, and my much cherished desire. Yet, it was an lifetime experience.
We, four boarding school old boys, regardless of our ripened age, decided to take our maiden trip to Ladakh, that too as singles (liberated from wives).
The excitementw obvious, and I during
planning of the itinerary had put my foot down, saying: “Visit to Pangyong Tso is non negotiable
Ladakh historically, I learnt has been a melting pot of many cultures, evolving into the finest traditions of peace and spirituality. Shamanism, Buddhism, Islam, Christianity and Hinduism are some of the many ingredients, of an entrancing recipe, that the pot churns out placidly. My friend Zora Nawang Regzin, a very tall local political leader, says, to our pleasant surprise that Buddhism came to Ladakh via Kashmir, which was at one time great Buddhist learning centre. Buddhism, in Ladakh he adds, is a blend of Shamanism, unlike what is being practiced in Japan or elsewhere. As we set out to see Leh, former capital of Ladakh kingdom, and its surroundings, Shri Patthar Sahib Gurudwara was one high point.
Guru Nanak Dev had meditated here, on the banks of River Indus and held on to a huge rock hurled at him by the demon.
As Zanskar river joins Indus only few miles away from here, a spiritual confluence of Buddha and Nanak spurns palpable positive synergy in the environment. We were fed by the langar of Baba(Guru Nanak) for the lunch, and it was simply soul filling.
Stenzin, a cute Ladakhi, was our driver cum guide, and next morning, we four set out to explore Nubra Valley, across Khardung La(pass). A small tip for the travellers to Ladakh, hire Mahendra’s Xylo and not Innova, because of road clearance. It is a perfect car for mountains and quite spacious too. Climbing along the winding road, chasing contours of barren mountains, was very exciting, specially for our civilian friends who were venturing into such altitudes for the first time. I realised as we grow old we are conditioned to all kind of motion sickness, and may be that it troubles only kids. We four were all happy and chatting, in a child like propensity. As the altitude increased, we faced some kind of breathlessness. Thanks to the advisory by Brig Jha, the hand held oxygen cylinders came handy. The puffs started. We, got bumped into Army convoy and over spent our time in crossing Khardung La, but finally it was such a relief to climb down from 18379 feet. Soon, we were driving along breathtaking Nubra valley. It is flanked on both sides by towering rocky mountains, chiseled by cruising winds over ages, and looking so very picturesque. Ladakh falls on the leeward side of Himalayas, and therefore gets scanty rains or snow. As the Valley widens, the River Nubra flows rather lethargically and her distinct green waters look simply divine, meandering the stretch of blade less terrain. The landscape surprises you with sand dunes, along the river banks, akin to our Rajasthan. In single frame of your lens you can click, snow clad peaks, barren mountains, flowing river bed and sand dunes.
utmost surprise we saw whirlwinds, similar to what we have in our native Rajasthan. Feeling at home we were, but got punctuated by occasional breathlessness and tiredness to remind us of the altitude we were plying at. Notwithstanding, the perils of terrain we were enjoying thoroughly the beauty of Himalayan and Ladakh ranges. The temptation to shoot whole of Nubra Valley was getting high. We all got busy with our mobiles on a shooting spree. Soon we realised that fun of enjoying the realtime, seizing those memorable moments, was fleeting away. We just put the camera back and started savouring on those Godly creation.
It’s a rare part of the world, and holds immense opportunities to develop tourism for India. A stretch of mountain slopes on the Eastern Bank looked so similar to Grand Canyons of Arizona, and simply looked magnificent. As we were closing down for the day’s journey, a small village called Hundar popped up with greenery like an oasis. It rears double hump camels, that some Mongolian invaders supposed to have left behind some centuries ago. These are attraction to young tourists, and conveniently we kept our course, rushing to hit our destination, the Siachen Brigade Headquarters.
Brigadier Bhupesh Hada
He is the Siachen Tiger, World’s highest battle field Commander, a soldier of high acclaim who summited Mount Everest, runs Leh Marathon (73 km across Khardung La), and is fit as fiddle. His josh is unprecedented and he is itching to be unleashed into Pakistan. A decorated soldier, who dons with pride Purple Heart on his chest amongst many distinguished medals. Seeing him, Indian freedom stands guaranteed. Bhupesh, hosted us generously for a sumptuous campfire dinner; and we were no stray visitors to his formation, but his seniors(uncles to him) from School. Felt so very proud.
Next day our journey began for Pangyong Tso, driving along the beautiful Shyok Valley. It gets surprisingly wide and takes away any kind of claustrophobia that one may suffer in high mountains. The road meanders running right on to bed of the river. We were lucky to spot some rare wildlife. First were a couple of stripped partridges, which google tells me are called Chukar Partridges. And next was Marmot. A burrowing animal of rodents family. A very cute, dumb creature which makes it a easy prey. Now in the list of endangered species. Snow leopards thrive on these. Marmots go, the leopards go. And, to our good luck we spotted herd of wild asses. They looked so pristine, and our friend Asadullah from Ladakh says, these are the purest form of life here. He further adds to support, a local notion prevails in Ladakh, that if humans touch these equines they could probably get infected. Imagine the purity.
Pangyong Tso I, finally landed at Pangyong Tso on 18 May, 2019. Fifteen years, it took for my time to come. The experience was divine and God welcomed us by unleashing gushing winds, that could even rock our Xylo. As the winds blew past our faces and eyes got watered, the nose froze; and the vim that I had yearned for, was here kindling me. It was great moment of satisfaction and acclaim. The lake is simply breathtaking with its turquoise expanse of water, guarded by golden lit mountains with rocky face, and a leafless barren scape rising into spotless blue skies. You feel it only, when you are there in the middle. Amir Khan, the Bollywood Star has made this lake world famous through his movie called ‘Three Idiots’. We had lunch at a small eatery run by a young mother. We relished veg momos, and honey tea. That was surely energising. A lot needs to be done to have infrastructure for sustaining large number of tourists here.
We spent the night at Tangse, another Army camp. It was trying night at 15480 feet for half acclimatised oldies. The morning was bright and sunny, Sep Hemant treated us with some crisp hot parathas for breakfast with spicy aloo sabji. I am not so fond of parathas but couldn’t stop myself seeing three of my buddies savouring them.
Our journey back to Leh began soon after Parathas. Crossing Changala Pass was another experience. It’s a tougher pass to negotiate than Khardung La, the altitude being almost same.
Indian Army
The most inspiring part of my Ladakh trip was the indomitable spirit of Indian Army deployed there, and serving the nation under the harshest and trying conditions of weather and terrain. The Border Roads is sturdy organisation that works round the clock, relentlessly under extreme conditions to keep Ladakh open to rest of the world. Their sacrifices in no way go shorter than Indian Army. To feel a proud Indian, we all must visit Ladakh and smile with its sentinels, a selfie with them may be, to carry as a souvenir. Been once part of this mighty and hearty service, as veterans we feel, the Army is flying high. God speed and our salute….Jai Hind.
As we rolled down into the Indus Valley, and back on the road to Leh, there was an irresistible temptation to take a diversion from Karu, to visit the world renowned Monastery, Hemis. Jesus, supposed to have been here, as the controversial fable goes, during lost years. And above all, Parikshit, a soulmate friend, had insisted that we must.
Visit to Ladakh, is evidently incomplete without a spiritual sojourns at Monasteries. We chose only one, the Hemis.
Hemis Monastery.The Monastery is tucked high up, in to a cleavage of cliff like steep mountains. It overlooks a hermitage with cluster of houses for devotees and seekers to live and dwell.
I, specially had an incredible experience, the moment I set my foot inside the stupa, where a huge, towering, copper gilded Buddha sits in a lotus mode. In, there I felt, was a tranquility of a deep ocean; and the air was filled with the smoky incense, simply lighting purity of thought. I just sat down in the shadow of Buddha, and slowly got drowned into the chanting of hymns. The divine sounds poured into my heart, filling whole inner self in consonance with the environment. Already worn out by the tough drive, down from Chang La, I was soon drifted into kind of a trans, inundated with the serenity of this Godly place. To me this was a high point of my sojourn in Ladakh. It took me an effort to come out of the deep quiescence and resume our journey ahead. I couldn’t resist sharing this with other three buddies, and they all had similar feelings to express. The whole place was superbly charged with positive energy.
A delicious lunch at Karu, was very filling, and Leh was not too far.
Our trip to Ladakh, ended sooner than we thought.
